Pattern Cutting

An introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting, this practical book shows students how to interpret the human form and look at clothing through the eyes of a designer rather than a consumer. As well as explaining the proportions of human anatomy, the book introduces key tools and then takes the reader from simple pattern-cutting ideas to more advanced creative methods. Step-by-step illustrations show how to create basic bodice, sleeve, skirt, dress and trouser blocks, before demonstrating how to adapt these to create patterns for original designs. There is also a chapter dedicated to digital technology and how this is increasingly being used in both colleges and industry. The book also examines a selection of the author's own creative designs, encouraging experimentation with the potential of pattern cutting.ntroduction Chapter 1: Preparation for Pattern Cutting Mannequins and Measurements / Personal size chart/ Mannequin size chart/College size charts/Industry size charts/Choose a size chart for industry/The sampling size, small size or standard size/ The High Street effect on sizing/Understanding the Fabric/ Woven versus stretch/ Grain line/Straight grain/ Horizontal grain/ Bias grain/ Working with Gravity/Suppression - darts/Observation, rationale and production of a working drawing/ Chapter 2: Selecting the Tools Chapter 3: The Basic Block Making a Basic Block/Tools and materials/The Basic Bodice Block/Key measurements/ Drafting the basic bodice block/The Basic Sleeve Block/Sleeve crown/ Sleeve width/ Elbow/ Wrist/ Middle of sleeve/ Drafting the basic sleeve block/The Basic Skirt Block/ Key measurements/ Drafting the basic skirt block/The Basic Dress Block/ Key measurements - combining existing bodice and skirt blocks/Drafting a basic dress block combining existing bodice and skirt blocks/ Key measurements - using an existing bodice block and constructing the skirt from actual body/measurements/ Drafting a basic dress block using an existing bodice block and constructing the skirt from actual/body measurements/The Basic Trouser Block/ Key measurements/ Drafting the basic trouser block/A Pattern Cutter's Aide Memoire Chapter 4: Drafting the Paper Pattern and First Toile Folding the paper pattern/Adding the seam allowances, notches and drill holes/ Notches/ Drill holes/Speaking the Pattern Cutter's Language/The Toile/Calico or no calico/Fitting on a mannequin/Making and adjusting the toile Chapter 5: Converting the Block into the Design Adding Seams to Paper Patterns/Eliminating Seams/ Combining two straight seams/ Combining two shaped seams/ Larger pattern pieces and the layout plan/ Re-positioning the grain line/Moving Darts on the Paper Pattern/ Re-positioning darts/ Is it possible to remove darts completely?/ Dart manipulation/Adding Seams to Eliminate Darts/ Back yoke of a shirt/ Back yoke of a pair of jeans/Include two darts on one seam/The princess line/Adding Pleats and Tucks/Construction using existing darts/ Construction achieved by pattern cutting/ Construction using measurements/Adding Volume/Collars/ Draft a simple standing collar or collar stand on the model/ Draft a simple standing collar or collar stand from a set of measurements/ Draft a one-, or two-piece collar with stand, on the model/Draft a two-piece collar from a set of measurements/Peter Pan and Sailor's Collars/Convertible collar/Openings and Fastenings/Buttons, buttonholes and the button stand/Zips/Concealed placket/ Fly front/Converting a Bodice Block into a Jacket Block Chapter 6: Pattern Cutting in Practice/A Piece of String/The material/ The pattern/ Construction/The TA" Coat/ The material/ The pattern and construction/The Bias Tube/ The pattern/ Construction/The Parachute Dress / The material/ The pattern/ Construction/A Piece of Cloth - the Blank Canvas/ The material/The pattern and construction/Iaido Tuxedo / The material/ The pattern Chapter 7: Pattern Cutting and Technology/CAD / Pattern cutting software Glossary of terms/Further Reading/Index/Picture credits and acknowledgements/Size Chart